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Just like every space constrained maker I too look out how to work with what is available. So I finally added a Black and Decker router to the table saw. Its perfect because it adds more surface to the table saw.

Btw I am using Makita MLT100 table saw.

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I begin by measuring the distance of the opening. Oh! Cutting the MDF is almost like cutting butter. After working plywood forever working with MDF is a pleasure.

Once the piece is cut I set it on the table and mark how heavy it is to the table. That would the amount I need to route out. So in my trim router I set the straight dado bit and set the dept to the marking.

These lines mark the thickness of dado that I have to route. And this piece of wood acts as the guide. Almost looks like the firing of a jet engine aint it. But we cannot deny that MDF makes a mess too.

Here I am dadoing the other side of the MDF. I cut another piece of MDF and this will hold the router. Before marking I first secure it to the top piece and check if the fit is right by placing it on the table.

To find the center I draw lines from each corner. This will give me where to position my router. Then I can mark the area that I have to cut out.

First I will use a forstner bit to create a hole that will go all the way through both the layers of MDF. This will act as the hole through which the bit will come out.

Now I can remove the second MDF and use that hole to pass through the Jigsaw and make the cut. I took my time to cut through the MDF and was very careful to follow the line.

Its such a happiness if things fit in the first try.

These block will hold the router. I mark the wood so I can cut it at the bandsaw. This was such a risky cut. I must have used a zero clearance board and then made the cut. Coz the bandsaw was pulling the piece along with the blade.

Now I can drill some holes and secure the piece with nut and bolt. There are two options of nut. One is a T-Nut and the other is I don’t the exact name but it screws into the wood. But because MDF is a softer wood I will use the T-Nut.

Btw the T-But goes on the inside of the second MDF so it is sandwiched between the two boards. This way its more secure. And it is will I am countersinking the thickness of the t-nut by creating an indentation.

A little hammering and the T-Nut is fixed good.

To make the bolt heads. I cut these left over MDF. Marked a rough center point. Then to fix the head I first drilled a shallow hole. Then a 8mm hole for the bolt to go through. Now I can hammer the bolt inside the MDF. And thats how the pieces are secured. You can see the Router moving as I tighten the holders.

Now thats out of the way I have to create a holder that secures the router table to the table saw.

I am just drawing line and trying to get two holder piece out of one block. This piece of wood has enough material for both. I marked the holders in a zig zag fashion to achieve this.

This time I got wise and used a 6mm plywood as a zero clearance board.

These are the two holders that I will be using.

I pre-drill before attaching the holders. I am going to pretty much follow the same method that I used before.

After removing and flipping the second MDF I can counter sink using forstner bit. Forstner bit tends to wobble when the initial hole is a bit bigger.

So there are four t-nuts in total. Two near the router and two on the edges.

Time to finally secure the router table to the saw.

A little test cut wouldn’t hurt I suppose.

MDF and water a great enemies. So to protect the surface I am stick this laminate with some 3M spray adhesive. The bond is instant and no time for correction.